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Our third segment, from Pittsburgh to Cincinnati, we completed while we were temporarily living in the mountains of western Maryland, about 200 miles from Pittsburgh. On it, we initiated Nancy’s new bike, which we purchased, of all places, at Bicycle Heaven. No, you don’t have to leave the planet to get there - it’s in Pittsburgh, but is as near to heaven for bicyclists as you might get. Along with a huge selection of used bikes at reasonable (and negotiable) prices and an even larger selection of bike parts, the complex houses a bicycle museum with bikes of all shapes, sizes and eras you could imagine. A must see if you’re in Pittsburgh and love bikes (which you must, or you wouldn’t be reading this).

One of the nice parts of this trip was that most of the route is on a cross state bike trail, the Ohio to Erie Trail, that runs continuously from Cincinnati to Columbus, and intermittently, at present, from Columbus to Cleveland (but you can take it the other direction, of course, like we did). There’s also a trail from Pittsburgh to the Ohio River opposite Steubenville, OH, that eases your way as well.  

Getting to Steubenville from Pittsburgh, though, presented us with a few difficulties. After slow riding all day in the rain on a soppy trail, we finally reached the Ohio River. The map indicated that after a gentle decline from the trail we could easily cross the river into town. But one catch - this involves taking the expressway bridge into town, which is a no-no for bicyclists. The only other option is a taking a detour south through constant up and down terrain along the river cliffs to a smaller bridge, with a mesh, steel surface, wet and slippery from the rain. Worse yet, the 100-foot drop to the river is clearly visible through the mesh, which somewhat terrified Nancy. There is a sidewalk adjacent to the road, but we noticed it too late. Wet, exhausted and still somewhat unnerved, we settled for a motel that night.    

Crossing eastern Ohio takes you through Amish country complete with horse-drawn buggies, Amish farms and markets, and traditional Amish dress. Ohio farms in general, of course, stretch across the horizon. About this time, we met a couple couples doing distance rides as well. One couple was going from somewhere in Canada to Mexico. Another gentleman, we forgot his destination, was “accompanied” by wife and infant child! The child was in a bike carrier behind him, but we didn’t encounter his wife, who was not in the best of spirits, until several miles later down the road. We wondered how long their trip would last.

On the way to join the Erie to Ohio trail northeast of Columbus, we made a very pleasant discovery - Sugarcreek, otherwise known as Little Switzerland. Settled in the 19th century by German and Swiss immigrants the town takes you back a bit to the old country with its distinctive flavor and architecture. The centerpiece attraction is what is boasted as the world’s largest cuckoo clock, which puts on an impressive display on the hour - worth waiting around to see.  

Having finally reached the Erie to Ohio trail, our work wasn’t through yet. The trial is incomplete between Columbus and Cleveland, with stretches that require some significant climbing. But once you reach Columbus, it’s a piece of cake (except for getting lost in Columbus, since the trail is poorly marked there - at least it seemed that way to us). On the way through town, you pass through the massive campus of Ohio State University, which is worth strolling or rolling about.

The Erie to Ohio trail from Columbus to Cincinnati is wonderful - straight as an arrow and flat as can be. It runs continuously between the cities. We had the special treat of enjoying lupines growing in all their glory along most of the trial. Outside Columbus, we treated ourselves to a bed & breakfast in London (Ohio), since there were no campsites to be found. In fact, they are not superabundant in southern Ohio in general.

A really fun town is Xenia, about halfway to Cincinnati. There we encountered the intersection of several bike trails made up like the intersection of major expressways, complete with road signs and a welcome center. Makes you feel important. Xenia boasts a very special (and ingenious) feeding center named One Bistro, where one has the option of getting a free lunch, paying a reduced fee, paying the normal fee, or donating beyond that to the center. If you eat free, you agree to work off the meal volunteering for the center. So, you’re sitting down to lunch with people from all across the fiscal spectrum, which was a blast. The lunch was good too!  

Another fascinating city worth touring is Waynesville, which must be close to the antiques capital of the United States. The streets are lined with antique shops, which will significantly delay the departure of any biking party with antique lovers or shoppers in general. We enjoyed dinner in a local restaurant famed for the best food in town with a visiting antique dealer from another town, whom we met while waiting in line to get in.  

Arrived in Cincinnati. You’ll have to see the renovated riverside district which now is a mega-park filled with attractions and loads of people. You can also take a jaunt across the bridge into Kentucky, an easy task now, but no so for slaves from the South fleeing to freedom two centuries ago. Cincinnati, in fact, features the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center museum. Certainly worth a visit.  

No picture of Stuebenville to show.  Sorry.  You’ll have to use your imagination!